Night wash

I was taking my bike in to get a new set of tires the following day and didn't want to leave the mechanic with a mess of mud and leaves to deal with. Fall can be harsh. I know I don't really need to do this, but I always feel as if the more attractive I make the bike to work on, the better job a mechanic will do. Changing tires on a mud-crusted rim can't be a good thing. Being fall it gets dark around 4:20pm now, not leaving any daylight hours after work for such missions of cleanliness. And so what is usually a simple task turns into a ceremony of rarefied acts under cover of darkness. Add some misty rain and biting cold and you've got a test of faith to separate the true believers. Then it started to hail.


Canon IXY 910 @ ƒ/2.8

Final Fall Colours

Parking next to a tree the poor leaves were holding on to the bitter end as the wind kicks up and the mornings get colder. We're soon in to the grey winter. For now, enjoy the final flames of fall colour.


Downtown Vancouver, Canada
Canon IXY 910 @ ƒ/2.8

Group Rides

I finally went on my first group ride. People met at a specific location, at a set time, and rode a defined route together, in formation. The real deal. It was also my first time riding with a Harley crowd, which was very interesting. I never understood what people meant when they say BMW riders are 'technical', but I think i get it now. Speeds, lane position, posture, formation, are all a little more, ahh, finessed with the cruisers. And a big difference is the number of breaks taken. I'm used to putting in at least 150km for a nice ride. We covered 55km in about 4hrs. This included two coffee stops, a meetup, a lookout, and getting dinner. It was great conversation, just not a lot of riding. I'm not against trying it again, but I'm also happy to have the roads to myself this winter.


Stanley Park, Vancouver, BC, Canada
Canon 5D + 20mm @ ƒ/2.8

Empty Streets

It was Thursday afternoon and a huge rainstorm hit downtown Vancouver. This might sound like it should be common for a city perimetered by rainforest, but the rain here tends to be slow and long sometimes lasting weeks at a time. We don't get monsoons or heavy bursts too often. But this Thursday we had a big dump and the citizenry ran for cover. The streets were empty of cars and boots. Fortunately when I had to go out was the exact moment the rain cleared and the sky broke open into a marble of blue, white, and black. An exceptionally surreal ride.


Vancouver, BC, Canada | downtown
Canon IXY 910 ƒ/2.8

Familiar Places

There's something to be said for familiar workplaces. Like a desk, a toolbench, or a cockpit. These places slide into the background of thought so the challenges at hand may consume all due effort. Walking up to the bike this morning I crossed a line. After 19,000kms travelled this bike now feels familiar. I know the controls, the weights, the distances. Limbs fall to the bends of the machine. I know what the bike will accept and what will be rejected. I don't think about riding it, I think about the adventures ahead.


Canon IXY 910 @ ƒ/2.8

Ends of the day

Photography and motorcycling have one convenient thing in common: both are best at the first or last ends of the day. It's all about the light. Sunrise is a crisp and alert light washing over still-sleeping subjects. It comes on fast and strong and fills the landscape with motivation for the day. Sunset has a muted brilliance that burns to live up to the photographer's naming, 'beauty light'. Everything looks more perfect awash in scarlet haze. The bike likes these things too as it rolls through familiar terrains temporarily disguised by the lights and shadows of the ends of the day.


Canon 5D + 20mm @ ƒ/5

Flare

I didn't take a lens hood (thingy to block the sun from shining straight into a lens and making it flare) this morning since the weather was so poor and rainy when i jumped on the bike. "Won't need that!" Once on the road, and heading a little further south away from the mountains, the sky opened up to a beautiful fall day. Spring has urgency as everything is busy growing and flowing. Great fall days seem to drift along as nothing really wants to see them end.


Canon 5D + 20mm @ ƒ/4.5

A Day in Bologna (Hint: Ducati)

Daily Rider goes to Bologna

Taking a break from the daily commute I recently had the fortune to spend a few days in Bologna, Italy. Why this may be of interest to Daily Rider readers is Bologna is the home of Ducati, one of the most iconic motorcycle brands in the world.

My own experience with Ducati is limited to imaginary test rides at bike shows and window shopping. I've never ridden one (anyone want to trade for an afternoon?). But I do remember walking into a bike shop back in 1994 and seeing a Monster M900 for the first time - wow. It really messed with my expectations of what a bike could be, and far more attractive to my young eyes that any of the plastic fantastics buzzing around the streets.

I'm not the best source for a rolling history of the brand or racing pedigree so check out Wikipedia or the museum has a brief website based on the museum with more background information. So… on to some pictures!



To visit the museum you have to book ahead (thanks, A.S.!) When we arrived a big group was waiting and two English and two Italian groups set out. It was pouring rain and everyone was soaked, especially the several who had ridden to the museum on what looked like part of an extensive European motorbike tour. But everyone was happy, perhaps even a little giddy at what they were about to see.

The displays are organized chronologically starting with the early radios and electric razors that got the company started and moving quickly to the piccolo bicycle engine that fuelled a post-WWII transportation boom in Italy.







Most of the museum is devoted to Ducati's racing heritage. Surprisingly, there wasn't a single Monster in the museum, considering its been one of the top sellers for over a decade. Bikes were all nicely cleaned without being over-restored. There was a special section for the Moto GP models. It was the obvious pride of the stable.






The black stallion was originally used by both Ducati and Ferrari.





The guide mentioned that Ducati has patented the exhaust note of their 90° twin, but there was no mention of this nor samples of the sounds of the bikes. I don't know about anyone else but it is the sounds that elicits the most excitement with the Ducati brand. A nice touch were the magazine clippings for some of the models from trade magazines of the day. "The Italian rocket for '75" and so on.

The gift shop was reserved for such a flagship location. Nothing like the gaudy Ferrari wonderlands that ferment on Euro-trash real estate. A.S. tried a leather jacket, but they only carried two (wrong) sizes.











I went into the experience thinking of Ducati as a stylish if flamboyant manufacturer. They obviously see themselves as a technology company solely focused on winning races. I think they know what they're doing.

Definitely a great visit if you're in Northern Italy.

Postscript - While in Modena next door i was passed by a Ferrari prototype test drive on public B roads complete with obscured bodywork. Fun!

Brief checkout

I'm heading off on some fresh adventures with no computers. Photos to return in several weeks.

And so these parties divided upon that midnight plain, each passing back the way the other had come, pursuing as all travelers must inversions without end upon other men's journeys.
~ Cormac McCarthy, Blood Meridian

University of British Columbia, Vancouver, Canada
Canon 5D + 28mm @ ƒ/6.3

Neon blues

Vancouver used to be known as one of the great neon cities in North America. This sax at the Yale Hotel is one of the last remaining. Now we take our glass clear and covering condos.


Granville Street, Vancouver, BC, Canada
Canon 5D + 20mm @ ƒ/2.8

Birds!

There's a fowl ritual in Vancouver where each night the crows evacuate the city for the greener pastures of the suburbs (I hear Deer Lake). On a lazy summer evening many years ago a friend offered in inimitable wistful tone, "there go the crows, again." For some reason that saying returns to me each night when i hear the flocks overhead. Birds will be birds.


Canon 5D + 50mm @ ƒ/4.5

11:35pm

Stumbling out of the restaurant on a sugar high from soda water. The traffic was light and what there was travelled fast on the empty Main Street. The street lights burn a strange orange glow. We no longer notice how alien it is to the calming blue of the natural moonlight.


BMW R1200R @ Main Street, Vancouver, BC
Canon IXY 910 @ ƒ/2.8

Distant Relatives

Daily Rider is about photographing the experience of riding a motorcycle. But, photos are a quite different thing than riding, and sometimes the pictures that turn out well were taken at the most uninspired times of riding, and vice versa. Here's a shot that you'll have to use your imagination with a bit (view large?), as it was one of the most spectacular views I've recently had. If you look really hard you'll see Mt. Baker, WA, in the distance. It's a familiar sight from Vancouver and on this evening it was cast in a scarlet and tawny glow that rippled with the quickly descending sun.


Mt. Baker, Washington State seen from Queen Elizabeth Park, Vancouver, BC
Canon 5D + 50mm @ ƒ/6.3

Tiger Skies

BMW R1200R
Canon 5D + 28mm @ ƒ/2.8

In the gutter, but staring at stars

Fall is definitely here as the leaves pirouette and collect in the gutters. Evenings are now cold for riding. Another few weeks and the jacket liner will be zipped in for sure. For now i'll enjoy the novelty of rose cheeks bitten by the wind.


Canon IXY 910 @ ƒ/2.8

Far and away

BMW R1200R
Canon 5D + 28mm @ ƒ/2.8

Cloud Nine

The rain had stopped earlier that day but the road was still wet. Normally I don't mind riding in the wet/rain but after a long dry summer it was smart to watch for dust and oils washing off the road. It was a day of slow cruising. One nice thing about the rain is the reflections on the road. They dance.


BMW R1200R
Canon 5D + 28mm @ ƒ/4

End of days

Taking in the sunset at Spanish Banks, Vancouver, BC.


Canon 5D + 28mm @ ƒ/5.6

Stoned

Taking a moment outside a cemetery in Tsawwassen listening to the trees in the breeze.


BMW R1200R
Canon 5D + 50mm @ ƒ/10

Laser Tag

The rest of the world goes by so fast when you're at pause. And that's the point.


BMW R1200R
Canon 5D + 28mm @ ƒ/8

Making Money

By the BC Ferries, looking out to Deltaport dockyard where precious (industrial) powders make way across the Pacific.



Canon 5D + 50mm @ ƒ/5.6

Try Nitrogen

At least, that's what the promotional poster by the pumps says.


Canon IXY 910 @ ƒ/2.8

Ships Ahoy

Vancouver harbour is commonly filled with freighters waiting to go into port. Here's one at twilight. The sun was dropping so fast that each successive shot's light fell by almost a stop.


Canon 5D + 50mm @ƒ5.6

Next turn?

Today Daily Rider turns 100. Pictures, that is.

Enjoy these photos? Leave a comment and let me know where we should go for the next 100.

I started Daily Rider as a way to record the photos I was taking during my daily commute by motorcycle. It seemed a natural fit as I enjoy both. I've been pretty happy with the shots I've captured over the past year, but there's always a new challenge on the horizon. I have some ideas about how things could change:

* describe the technical features and specifications of the photos
* literal descriptions of where the photos were taken
* commentary about the photos and what they symbolize for the riding experience
* fewer bike shots and more road/scenery? More bike shots?
* Standardize around a theme?

With RSS this site has a pretty anonymous readership. I'd love to hear from anyone that has ideas for the next series!

Thanks,
Dan


Where to? Canon 5D + 50mm @ ƒ5

Cat eyes

Canon IXY 910 @ ƒ2.8

Dry rain

Canon IXY 910 @ ƒ8

Sunburst

The sun starts to release the heat of the day near the end of an early morning ride.


Canon 5D + 50mm @ f/22

Sideways II

Sometimes it's fun to travel in packs.


Vespa LX50 and BMW R1200R on Cambia street, Vancouver, BC, Canada.

Happy Birthday, Bike

The R1200R turned 1 year old this week. The odometer cleared 18,000km which i guess is not bad for twelve months. Most of that riding was in the dreary winter months, and 6,000km of it was from the infamous snowy trip to San Francisco in March '09. This summer was just too busy with buying/selling/moving houses to get out for many rides. I really wish i could have done at least two more big road-trips this summer. But, truth be told, fall is my favourite time to ride anyway, and this fall I have the newly discovered and life-changing heated jacket to plug in. Everyone: go buy one now!


I was trying to catch a spectacular sunset, but, as usual, by the time the technology caught up with Nature it was too late. Or, at least that's how i remember it. BMW R1200R outside a Safeway, Vancouver, BC, Canada.

City of Glass IV

Entering downtown Vancouver via Georgia viaduct. These window will have a great view of all manner of shenannigans during the 2010 Olympics.


BMW R1200R on Georgia Viaduct, Vancouver, BC, Canada

Sideways

The Vespa has a slow leak in the rear tire so we've been doing gas station runs every few nights to top it up until i have time to diagnose the problem.


Vespa LX50 and BMW R1200R make a great team.

Parking gymnastics

Let's call it the parallel bars.


City parking gymnastics.

Trailing (part 2)

part 1

Further down the road the concrete stops and gravel begins. The GPS says there is a path continuing on. Our goal is to get back to HWY 25 as a washed out bridge has prevented any access South. This road is our ticket to get up the back side of Mt. St. Helens so we push on, curious about what exactly is "two miles ahead" as the sign warns.



BMW R1200R en route to Mt. St. Helens, WA, U.S.A. somewhere around HERE.

Sunrise II

Riding under a web of bus wires. It's amazing how much ground transportation changes the sky too.


BMW R1200R at 41st and Granville, Vancouver, BC, Canada.

Two hearts

There are two hearts on the flags in the distance.

Sunrise I

Summer must be ending if I'm catching the sunrise as I head to work. The motivation is mostly so I can get a parking spot in the now-busy lot with all the sport bike riders on the road.


Morning in a Kerrisdale alley on a BMW R1200R.

Harley rights

Taking time to admire the calm at a small lake. The birds were the only ones breaking the silence, although I could see lots of bugs enjoying the lake surface too. Their world seems busy but quiet. With a slow and escalating warning the quiet was broken by a Harley Davidson coming over the next hill. He thundered by, ignoring me of course. I didn't mind the temporary disturbance though.


BMW R1200R and Harley Davidson Somethingorother, Princeton, BC, Canada.

Trailing (part 1)

The GPS pointed forward, but looking back it was clear this road was getting smaller and smaller. Still no real hint of the adventure to come.


Mt. St. Helen's, Washington State, U.S.A.

Burger shack

This is a burger shack. Stopping for gas the nice attendent insisted this was the best, far better than the River Lodge a few miles back. It was one of those magical roadside stops: unexpected, eccentric, and delicious. The exceedingly nice owners made sure the milkshake was just as I liked it. The chainsaw carvings were good for conversation. The steady stream of hunters and fishers emerging from the bushes suggested there were things worth killing nearby. You kinda hate to leave these places.


Burger shack, Highway 20, Washington State, U.S.A.
Canon IXY DIGITAL 910 IS, ƒ/8

4th and Midnight

Picking up takeout after a long day's work. After raining the night before everything smelled wonderful: Flowers, fresh cut grass, and the mild saltiness of the sea breeze hang in the still evening air. Oh, and everyone is excited to be out racing their cars after several nights with wet roads.


BMW R1200R at 4th avenue, Vancouver, BC, Canada.

Outlooks

The only time wheels stopped is a good thing is when you're catching a view.


BMW R1200R somewhere around here on Hwy 8, British Columbia.

Black point

Parking for the evening. I had to drag the bike in as she wanted to keep going.

Bulk fare

Paying large for a sliver of parking on the BC Ferries. There was a good group of riders on this trip and many interesting stories were swapped while the boat docked. One gentleman (on a well-ridden Harley Davidson) was from the Greater Vancouver Motorcycle Club and helped educate me on their 80+ year history. With a sister chapter in Oakland it sounds like a great group.

Sky light

Days don't get any better than this for being out in the air, light, and smells of summer. Best viewed large.

Lookout

Taking in the view somewhere around Orondo, Washington State, USA. A warm stop with a hot view.



I like the cloud's shadows in this one.

Hot Wheels

Not exceptional for many parts of the world, but here in temperate Vancouver anything over 35℃ (95℉) is a killer heat wave. Tires sure grip well and it doesn't take long to get the boxer engine warmed up in the morning, but the heat is really messing with even the best ATGATT* intentions. I haven't see a biker in anything other than a t-shit for weeks. The BMW Ralley Pro jacket's ventilation has been surprisingly effective for reflecting the sun and moving air through. I've also had a few close calls of the bike dumping over fromt the kickstand sinking into the asphault, even just for a minute before i get it on the centre stand.

It's still a beautiful time to be out riding though.

*All The Gear All The Time is a popular refrain to rally riders into wearing a complete set of safety gear no matter the conditions or how short the ride.



BMW R1200R in The Great Heat Wave of 2009, Vancouver, BC, Canada.

Backwards forward

Not a view you're likely to see too often when piloting a bike. But, sometimes, it's fun to look back at roads recently travelled.


BMW R1200R on Hwy 8, British Columbia, Canada.

The real Spences Bridge

This is the actual Spences Bridge at Spences Bridge. It's a one-way (i.e. whatever way the present traffic happens to be traveling) passage over a small river at the join of Hwy 1 and Hwy 8 in British Columbia. That's a two-up Harley crossing in front of me.


Harley Davidson going two-up across Spences Bridge, British Columbia

Unhappy thoughts

I don't know why I did it. Parked at a cafe in Spences Bridge, BC, far far from a service statation, and forget about a shop with repair facilities. Sipping a soda in the 30+ heat i bent down and examined the rear tire. There was a sharp rock right in front of me, jammed into the tire. Should I pull it out? Will that cause a rush of air to escape, or will it save the tire from the rock being pushed in further? I decided to pull it out, figuring it was better to test my tire patching skills somewhere with soda facilities. It was deep, but there was no rush of air. I really enjoyed the last of that soda.


Michelin Pilot Road 2 on a BMW R1200R

At pause

Momentarily paused during a summer night ride.


BMW R1200R parked at night. Vancouver, BC, Canada.

Traffic #1

A daily scene from the morning commute.


BMW R1200R commuting through Vancouver, Canada.

Night parade

Cruising home with A.S.. Summer rides are wonderful.


Vespa LX50 in Vancouver, Canada.

Evening ride

Arriving home from a great evening ride.

Late night Granville street

A late night scene, Granville street entertainment district.


BMW R1200R and a late night on Granville street, Vancouver, BC.

Hastings sunset

Another ride at sunset. In the suburbs the roads seem bigger, wider, longer. They are also busier, but when the traffic gets light they feel empty and somewhat lonely. Pedestrians seem totally out of place.


Sunset on Hastings st. looking over Playland, site of the yearly Pacific National Exhibition.

Harbour Centre

It's no Seattle Space Needle or Toronto's CN Tower, but Harbour Centre is a great addition to the Vancouver skyline.


View from the street of a BMW R1200R with Harbour Centre in the background, Vancouver, BC, Canada.

Full moon

In my two weeks there staying with family while 'in between homes' until we take possession of the new house I really began to enjoy Steveston. Being close to No. 2 Rd. the commute wasn't even bad into downtown. This was a gorgeous night to ride home as the full moon was out with amazing light - the colours wheren't altered in this shot at all. The wind was still too. No werewolves were spotted during my stop.


BMW R1200R with a full moon. Steveston, Richmond, BC, Canada.

Boxed up

Another metaphor for how life always closes in around us... no, actually, this is the great advantage to biking in a city - stealing close parking spots!

MOTOR CYCLES

BMW R1200R on BC Ferries

Close quarters

I find the ferry ride between Victoria and Vancouver a great time to meet and chat with other bikes of all kinds. Vespas, Harley Davidson, Sports riders - you'll meet everyone here. In fact, some of the best stories i've ever heard were swapped while waiting for the ferry to dock.


R1200R and Vespa onboard a BC Ferry.

Boarding time

Taking the BC Ferries in the summer, on a motorbike, is great. You get to the head of the line, pay less, and the people watching is great. I've been stopped here in the winter with the wind and rain and you have to stay geared up which isn't much fun for long periods, without moving. In the summer, you can disrobe and soak in the sun. On a recent trip I had a lot of work to do and was able to double the backpack as a comptuer stand.


BMW R1200R and laptop waiting to board BC Ferries at Swartz Bay, Victoria, BC, Canada.

A not-so-daily update

Moving houses is a chore. Part of the fallout has been loosing access to my gargantuan MacPro that just refuses to fit into my travel bag. Yes, times like these a laptop would be great but the four terabytes of internal storage is hard to give up. For now the photos rest on my camera and upload capacity is hiding in a box.

But not for lack of riding. Last weekend was a fantastic 2,500km jaunt around Washington State, USA. Destination was Mt. St. Helens, but SM and I ended up on all sorts of back roads and even a three hour expedition into some mud and forest to try get around a washed out bridge.

Credit to the Destination Highways series for leading us on some interesting routes through Washington State.

The Prayer

The days are getting hotter to ride. Sometimes it feels good to be moving to catch a cool breeze. Sometimes it feels good to stop and let it soak in.


BMW R1200R motorcycle at rest. Burnaby, BC, Canada.

Into the sunset

BMW R1200R on the Trans Canada Highway

The Yale Hotel

The Yale Hotel is one of the last great venues for live music in downtown Vancouver. There were so many when i first moved here in the mid-90s. Not looking back after crossing this bridge.


The Yale Hotel, Vancouver, BC, Canada.

Pasturetimes

This is farm field. It really smells. Thing is, i've never really minded the smell of farms. Maybe not my first choice of odours, but I can think of a lot worse than the stench of fresh healthy food being grown. Still, I didn't stop until i was well-clear.

The constant mesh, or, How i learned to respect transmission repairmen

In today's class i learned that transmissions are difficult to rebuild. Sure, getting them into place is easy, but to function correctly and put the cases back together... that is a challenge.


A Yamaha motorcycle engine being 'studentized' at BCIT, Vancouver, B.C.

Punching out

If it's June, and dark out, then i'm leaving work too late. But the bright side of a sunless departure is the cool evening air and city lights for the commute. Traffic is also lighter. I really enjoy riding at this time of day, around 10pm. Weeknights are best as most city revelers aren't drunk and the drivers aren't either (at least less-so than Friday night). Vancouver has a selection of beautiful bridges for leaving the downtown core each with a flavour of sea breeze depending on the industry that surrounds it. Another detail only the bikers will notice.

Highway 7

From Hope to Vancouver via highway 7. It was a grey day but still a great ride. Spring is a beautiful time as the mountains still have snow. As it melts waterfalls crash everywhere. Rivers, too, are high and rapid.

two feet forward

I got out for a 315km ride after work this week. Being June we are headed into the longest days of the year and I aim to take advantage. It took about 4 hrs and I was back by 9pm, with still some light left. The route had me go out the Trans Canada highway (hwy1) from Vancouver to Hope. From there, i turned back towards town and took highway 7 all the way into Vancouver. It wasn't the most spectacular of rides, but was fun. I also rolled through some towns and tarmac I hadn't seen before, which is always fun. I think i'll take my riding boots to work a few more times this summer.


Oxfords and a BMW R1200R motorbike caught together at last

summer canopy

The street behind my new house. I love the canopy of old trees. Not moved yet, but already riding around the area in anticipation.


a BMW R1200R staring down the streets of Kerrisdale in Vancouver, Canada

morning coffee

free ferries

There are a lot of ferries in the BC Kootenays. Riding along a quiet road you never know when the pavement will make an abrupt end and your nose will dip into some fresh water. Mountains valleys and lakes. Luckily the boats are all free and most run fairly often.

This is the ferry from Belfour to Crawford Bay. I was extremely lucky to happen along 10 minutes before the ferry made its trip every two hours. I would have been stuck sitting around instead of exploring, or taking a different route and missing Creston and Salmo (with 5,800' summit).

Highway 8

The view from Highway 8 from Merritt to Spence's Bridge, BC, was a spectacular surprise. It is desert canyon riding like i didn't know we had around here, and so close to Vancouver. Rivaled or bettered the roads i took in California in March, if shorter. Looked like it could get really hot in the summer though, so take some water.

hobbit huts

Our accommodation in New Denver, BC, on a May ride through the Kootenays.

the promise

This photo may make your heart race. Or it might not. Probably better if it doesn't.

30km to Kaslo

One of my favourite rides in the West Kootenays was from New Denver to Kaslo. It's a technical road where clean lines and controled braking are most important. But the paving is good and the scenery beautiful as you roll through km after km of traffic-free mountain roads. This pic is from the first morning i went out and it looked like it might rain and chill for the day. But, not long after this picture was taken the rain stopped and it was a perfect day. These mornings make you appreciate the good weather when it comes.

Ghost towns

Sandon is an abandoned town just east of New Denver in the British Columbia Kootenays. Before leaving home I had hurriedly printed out an introduction to the 'ghost town' but was still startled when i came across it for real. Turn right for the Sandon ghost town the provincial tourist billboard announced. I did. There was a 5km dirt road into the town. An odd mix of modern mining industry and historic relics were at the end of the road. Check out the Sandon historical society.



And the river that saw much gold panning:


There was also a large collection of old Vancouver buses. The #10 is still running along Broadway and Granville street today.

Osoyoos panorama

One of the odder names of the Okanagan, i think, but Osoyoos is doubtless spectacular. We didn't stay long, just a gas stop on the first day of riding from Vancouver to New Denver. It's a popular area for the water sports crowd on Osoyoos lake too. I was happy were were on the bikes, and moving on to more mountains as the temperature started to rise.

(The originals included four images stiched together with Canon Photostich application for OS X.)

night before the morning after

We were just out to lubricate the chain before another day of big-miles, but it seems something much more ominous is afoot.

wet, but not raining

Dandelions

Just back from a four day trip to the British Columbia Kootenays. A great trip with fantastic people, weather, and roads. I'm looking forward to getting though some of the pictures and remembering what it all looked like - so much went by as a blur!

Shooting stars

Traffic takes some getting used to. If you're on a bicycle, you have to get used to it quick. You're always in the wrong place, invisible to everyone. On a motorbike you command the space of a car, but still slip in and out of visibility. Often this is your own doing so choose carefully. Slipping into a bike lane or shoulder, or making a quick right-side pass grants freedom but requires forethought. Stopped at a light you're in the middle of it all with lights and steel zooming around. It's spectacular in a spectator sort of way. Your own private show you can embrace or choose to slip away from. This is the biggest difference with a car: On the bike you're volunteering to participate in the rules. You can choose to recluse at your whim, but choose carefully.

street over there

Light so perfect
it makes the most mundane--
those things we overlook--
seem promiscuous and new.
Ready for its close up.

Adventure pause

Pulling into home for the night after an evening of food, friends, and riding in the post-storm calm and blue/black sunset.

magic tank

The best (and worst) thing about a black paint job is the world of reflections.

over the bridge

Crossing Burrard Street Bridge at sunset. Rumour is they will close two lanes for bike traffic this summer. One can only hope (in vain no doubt) that includes motor-bikes. A boy can dream, can't he? Regardless, it was a perfect night to be part of the air.

lite spring

Looking up at Harbour Centre while waiting for @aschick to join me for Gastown's Shop Hop. Yes, i just learned what that was too.

Henry Hudson

I'm not sure who Henry Hudson was, but he has a school named after him across from my apartment. I wish I could let him know they've kept things looking quite lovely.

Update: Mr. Hudson's true origin has been duly corrected in the comments.

monumental

Passing through downtown on the way to a mountain ride, Saturday morning.

West wing

Heads up and SM pulls beside me on the Triumph. The dykes are beautiful, if oddly free from tides. The water and sky were both flat.

Crowded House

What do you call a pack of bikes that isn't a gang? Good thing they aren't crows. This was was fun while it lasted as the German, Italian, and British marquees assemble for the summer season. A crowded house.

Bikes and Blossoms

It was a grey day, but the spring blossoms helped cheer everything up. SM and I headed to Tsawwassen for the first show and shine of the year. Mostly the same bikes as last year, but one gentleman had a jet powered scooter. You think the Harley guys are loud? This guy woke up the neighbourhood!

I think my favourite of the show was this reproduced 1919 Excelsior board track racer:

Spring cleaning

Around River Road, Richmond.

Not May flowers

April showers bring May flowers.

San Francisco Dash: Coda

Check out the series
Prelude: Trip preparation
Part 1: Vancouver to Medford
Part 2: Medford to San Francisco via Shasta-Trinity Forest
Part 3: San Francisco to Medford via Klamath Falls
Part 4: Medford to Vancouver
Coda: Conclusions to a great spring trip

Did I have a good trip? Absolutely. Would I do it again? Not in March. Don't get me wrong, I'm glad I made the trip and it was the sort of thing that is great to do once. Now having that 'once' behind me I'd like to do it without snow next time. The heated jacket worked like a dream and I was rarely cold, but the chill does get to you eventually. What I found the most difficult to deal with was how the cold tightened the muscles, which then had to hold up my head for 13 hours of riding at 120kph. Let's just say my back was a bit 'tight' for a few days after. There was lots of good from the trip and here's a sample:

Most beautiful sight: Sunrise breaking through the Cascade mountains and into the valley between Medford and Ashland
Most interesting sight: San Francisco-Oakland Bay bridge as it passes through Yerba Buena Island, at sunset, with downtown in the background.
Best Rides: Callahan to Weaverville (110km), Rosewood to Red Bluff (40km), Dunnigan to Allendale (60km), Burney to Canby (120km)
Highest elevation: 5,300ft
Warmest temperature: +24
Coldest Temperature: -2
Friendliest person: Rest stop attendant in Willows California
Biggest surprise: I didn't see any wildlife on the whole trip except for vultures and squirrels (maybe a chipmunk)

The trip taught me a lot about riding long distances. With two of the days a hair away from 1,000km (I was tempted to ride around the block twice to break a grand on the first day) I'm now much more confident with hours in the saddle. Most of this is mental, and learning how to remain focused and direct your thoughts in productive ways. Like a meditation where you're focused on the intensity of every moment. Take breaks, stay nourished, and keeping the speed consistent are some of the easy to share lessons.


An early morning silhouette.

Finally, I got to see parts of the the country that I never would have, perhaps ever, had I not embarked on this journey. There's something about touring on a bike that tempts one to take the roads less traveled and longest way around. Bikes throw everything at you the environment has to offer, amplified by speed and adrenaline for every sense to consume. It's amazing how often these moments become indelible parts of experienced memory. Unforgettable moments so densely packed only the promise of what's around the next mountain might have the key to sorting it all out.

San Francisco Dash: Day Four

Medford, Oregon, to Vancouver, British Columbia (970km)
March 24, 2009

The last day's ride was going to be a long hard go. Distances were the same as the first day, but I now had over 2,700km on my backside and I didn't think my stamina would be quite the same as that first day. However, I'd learned several tricks for making good time, how to plan stops efficiently, and how to posture my ride so I could get 250km in one sitting.


An early start to the day for the final 950km ride back to Vancouver, BC.



First gas stop. Dark, cold, and wet, as it all began.

I got an early start and was on the road by 06:00, eager to get home. I was mildly deluded to thinking I could be back by 4pm if all went well. But based on the time of day I'd get there it was Seattle traffic I was most worried about. Like all tests of endurance I set smaller goals and had my sights set on Portland for a (hopefully) good lunch at Mother's Bistro, a place that Angie and I never miss when we're in town.


Morning mist rising up the mountains.

It's 450km from Medford to Portland and a quick go. The interstate is great here and the traffic light. Putting off breakfast I finally had to warm up with a coffee an Burger King was the only thing I saw for 30kms. They had absolutely the worst coffee I've ever injested!!! I couldn't bring myself to eat their breakfast so I finished another power bar as I huddled over the bike, mountain air chilling my fingers.


Worst coffee ever ever ever.

I made good time and arrived in Portland at 12:30. The GPS got me straight to Mother's, a parking spot was right out front, and I slipped past the line (there's always a wait) and into a single seat at the bar. A delicious tuna melt sandwich was mine and the key lime pie that somehow ended up in front of my was yummy too. This was going to be my one decadent stop of the day so I savoured the coffee.

Portland to Seattle was a long go. The distance was only 300km, but I was really starting to get antsy with the distances and missing a warm bed and shower. It had also started to rain making an unpleasant cocktail with the cold and wind. It was definitely still a West Coast winter here. Seattle traffic was also bad, as expected for rush hour, and even the car pool lane couldn't save me from bumper-to-bumper crawls. Finally through Seattle the rain only increased and it was a truly miserable 200km from Seattle to the Canadian border. Like my last night in Medford, I can't remember anything else of this part of the trip (forgetting can be hard work too).

Clearing Canadian customs was smooth and as I burned down Hwy 99 into Vancouver the sky cleared and there was a beautiful blue sunset to welcome me. It was great to be home, and even better having where I'd been.


The final sunset, in blue, Vancouver, British Columbia.

Check out the series
Prelude: Trip preparation
Part 1: Vancouver to Medford
Part 2: Medford to San Francisco via Shasta-Trinity Forest
Part 3: San Francisco to Medford via Klamath Falls
Part 4: Medford to Vancouver
Coda: Conclusions to a great spring trip

San Francisco Dash: Day Three

San Francisco, California, to Medford, Oregon (830km)
March 23, 2009

The third day of riding had the most unknowns and uncertainty. I knew I would head east, but I really didn't know what type of country it was, how many fuel stops there would be, or what weather I would encounter. By mid-day Sunday, the day before, I could feel myself starting to slip from the here-and-now of our weekend shared with friends and start to mentally prepare for the next day's ride. There was a plan and contingencies, but I really didn't know what to expect.


A good spot for an oil fix? It will have to do when you're in downtown San Francisco.

A. and I had moved from R.H. and T.T.'s hospitality to the San Francisco Hilton on Sunday night. They wanted $55 to park the motorbike so it was left at the house for me to pick up Monday morning. I was up at 05:30 and after a quick shower was in a taxi. I'm not sure what happened but there was a bizarre incident where the cab driver refused to take both my U.S. cash (the denominations where 'too small'?) or Visa (too 'large') as payment, I found a chastising note on the bike for parking without strata approval, I had to top up the bike with oil, and somehow during my wash the night before my helmet had become soaked with water and was nowhere near dry (i.e. now cold and clammy). Not in the right state of mind to begin a trip on the vicious Hwy 80 I found refuge at Philz coffee T. had showed me to two days before with their super good custom roasted blends and hand poured drip process (try the Treasure blend). As time goes it was 45 min before I knew what happened and time to get on the road. I activated the GPS and was off!!


R.H. snaps a picture from the car as I awkwardly ride past in the morning.

Left, left, left, left the GPS instructed and I was headed in an odd direction to get on the highway. It was telling me how to get back to the house I just left from, taking all left turns so as to remain legal in the labyrinthian San Francisco one way streets. Fifteen minutes of this before I knew what was going on and I rolled past the house just as R.H. and T.T. were leaving for work. Peering out the car mouthed through the window "didn't you leave two hours ago?" I just smiled, waved, and quickly corrected my route in the opposite direction. This wasn't my first epic trip with an embarrassing start and I fled with practiced precision.

Most of the big riding today was going to happen north of Redding, which itself is 350km north of San Francisco. I had to get north as fast as I could. The route was the same as the trip south 3 days earlier so it was a predictable ride. The skies were clear, but it was noticeably colder at 9℃ with a strong headwind. I stopped in Willows for gas and had a great burrito. I also tried some fluorescent mexican soda pop. Other stops were uneventful.


Rest stop outside Red Bluff, California.



Stopped for a Burrito at La Cabãna in Red Bluff, California.

I was at Redding by 1pm. A decision had to be made: Do I go for the long route and head far east to Bieber, or do I stay close to the I5 in case the weather turns? Rather than make a decision I decided to procrastinate and ride on to Burney, the first place my GPS suggested would have a gas stop. The ride to Burney was great. Very different from the southerly trip through Shasta-Trinity Forest, this was more arid with a lot of industrial agriculture and ranching. There was also a slow steady gain in elevation, though no clear mountains on the horizon. It was a fast road and the locals drove appropriately.


Just off the I5 on the way to Burney, California.

The temperature dropped as the elevation rose, but skies where still clear when I arrived at Burney. With a full tank I contemplated my options. The line east was long and terrain uncertain, but the GPS promised I could make it to the next major town, Klamath Falls, Oregon, on a single tank at 260km. What's an adventure without adventure? Off I went, the long way.


Hwy 299 between Burney and Canby, California.



By Lookout, California.

Burney, McArthur, Nubieber, Adin, and Canby where all small towns that took less than 5 blinks to pass through. Mountains were now at the forefront of scenery and I was quickly ascending. Wide open expanses with large mature forests made this feel like North country. The 'low' ranch lands were an impressive 3,000ft. elevation and the pass summits crossed 4,200ft. Snow was pretty much everywhere by now. Traffic was light and usually farm equipment putting along the shoulder. Temperatures were a steady 4℃ for most of the way, dipping to 2℃ at the various summits and raising to 6℃ in the valleys.



The high country of north-eastern California.

Past Canby, en route Klamath falls was interesting land. It's mostly flat, but the elevation is so high it has a very different feel. Skies were still clear and the crispness opened miles of visibility. Lakes are common in the flat areas, and Lava Beds National Monument looked like it would have be a great place to stop if I'd had more time.


Don't blink! Passing through Perez, California.

I pulled in to Klamath Falls at 17:30. It was six hours since I'd eaten so pulled out a power bar and bought a coffee with my fuel. I figured I could always stay in Klamath Falls if the weather was bad, or it was too late. Looking at the map it looked like the mountains got higher and part of the same range than provided the Siskiyou pass that frightened I5 travelers. Clouds were starting to collect and daylight was about 1.5 hrs. remaining. I figured this should be okay to get to Medford and kicked off on the final segment of riding for the day.


Gas stop in Klamath Falls.

Traffic was heavier leaving Klamath Falls and Hwy 140 actually felt like a highway unlike most of the roads i'd been on for the past 5 hours. With 2 hours of riding and 1.5hrs of available light I kept my speed up. The scenery was nice, but I must admit my mind wasn't on it as I was focused on the road. The final hours of the day can be the most dangerous and judgement and endurance are at their weakest. The clouds were also getting thicker and I was hoping it didn't start to rain. The hills ahead were full of snow and not rivers.


Hwy 66/Green Springs Highway.

Entering Winema National Forest things changed. Elevation rose quickly and the road signs warned 'all vehicles must carry chains'. Dog sledding to the left, snowmobiling to the right: It was clear I was in a nordic recreational area. The temperature had dipped to -2℃ and the thick fog was turning to snow. The roads were heavily sanded. I can't say this was my favourite part of the trip as I kept my head down and tried to dash through as quick as possible before the snow started to stick to the ground, which wouldn't be long if the air temperature continued to drop below zero. The Lake of the Woods summit was an impressive 5,200 ft. and it was all downhill from there, literally and metaphorically.


Just before the snowstorm hit riding from Klamath Falls to Medford, Oregon.

I made it out of the worst of the mountains before the rains started, but when they did it was a heavy downpour. The final 75km were cold, wet, and dark. I was a happy rider when I finally rolled in to Medford and looked for the nearest hotel that was within walking distance to an eatery that would also serve beer. The first motel was full. The second one I tried had one room left. It turns out that you can order beer at Pizza Hut, and they even have mini pitchers perfect for the thirsty traveler. I don't remember anything else from that night.

Next up: the final day's ride back to Vancouver.

Check out the series
Prelude: Trip preparation
Part 1: Vancouver to Medford
Part 2: Medford to San Francisco via Shasta-Trinity Forest
Part 3: San Francisco to Medford via Klamath Falls
Part 4: Medford to Vancouver
Coda: Conclusions to a great spring trip

San Francisco Dash: Day Two

Medford, Oregon, to San Francisco, California (740km)
March 20, 2009

The Travel Lodge earned it's (cheap) price when the fire alarm started sounding about 05:30. Not a full-alert, but that kind of nondescript dead battery beep you get every 5 minutes and wonder what the hell it is. This was enough to get me moving early and I was packed and on the road by 07:00. It was a clear sky and crisp 4℃ leaving the Medford flatlands and into the hills of Ashland. There was lots of highway construction but the morning traffic wasn't bad. The Medford area has agriculture, wineries, ranches, and is a bustling area. Looks like it would be a nice spot to call home for the right person.



Typical motel stop off the U.S. interstate. Very friendly staff.

This was an exciting morning for more than just the weather. I was heading to the best breakfast spot that A.S. and I found when making our December '08 trip through this area. Morning Glory in Ashland OR had everything going for it with all fresh ingredients, a charactered building, and friendly hosts. Every dish we had there had us going, "this is the best ____ I've ever had!" With a skip in my throttle I was there by 08:30am (after a few detours to enjoy the sunrise in the valley).


Sunrise (with dew on the bike) riding into Ashland from Medford for breakfast at Morning Glory.



Yum!!

Siskiyou Pass, 30km beyond Ashland, is the highest point of the I5 at 1,314 m (4,310ft.) and the point that I received the most cautionary tales of snow and bad weather. I had been watching the interstate webcams for the previous week and there was a lot of rain, but no snow as of yet. In fact, it turned out to be a fantastic ride as the air was cold and crisp, but the clear skies provided miles of visibility to the surrounding mountains. It's a quick up-and-down and I was shortly in California at the lookout to the big and beautiful Mount Shasta, the second highest in the Cascade mountain range at 4,322 m (14,179 ft).



Two views of the Klamath Mountains, Northern California, from Interstate 5.

There's a stark contrast in weather and geography crossing the border between Oregon and California. From green hills to red dirt, trees to shrubs, and cold to warm. I was now cruising the I5 at 12℃ and clear skies and decided to adjust my itinerary to take advantage. I had initially planned to go directly to San Francisco to make sure I was there in time to meet A.S. at the airport, at 21:30. On the way back I was going to detour to the east or west of the I5. I got to thinking that if I made one of those detours now then I could to both on this trip. Twice the fun and scenery? Can't say "no!"


Heading into Shasta-Trinity forest.



One of the spectacular views around Hayfork, California.

Internet research had suggested that the road from Gazelle to Callahan was one of the best in the state so I headed that way. I mapped out a 350km route that would take me through Shasta-Trinity National Forest and along Clair Eagle Lake. The map was green here, which could mean mountains. I expected around 5hrs before I would re-emerge on the I5 at Red Bluff.


A new adventure around every bend.

The ride through Gazelle, Callahan, Weaverville, and Hayfork could not have been more perfect. There was snow on the side of the road but the temperature was a not all-bad 7-9℃. The best part about traveling off-season is other vehicular traffic is almost non-existant. There are certainly no RVs, which can cause no end of frustration on twisting mountain roads. I had the roads pretty much to myself and could relax to take in the country.

There were abrupt elevation changes, tight curves, and other motorcycle riding goodness. I was very conservative riding as I was alone but still had a lot of fun. In the bike community there is often talk of canyon riding in the mid to south-west states. I truly got a taste for that here as ravines and cliffs punctuated the rolling main event. Red dirt on all sides and stubby trees do little to hide the mountain views. Descending onto the Clair Eagle Lake shoreline was a beautiful 30 min of casual rolling hills and my feet out on the cylinders for a relaxed cruise.


Gas stop in Weaverville, California.



Only a few bugs at this elevation, through Shasta-Trinity National Forest.

Being off-season there were few towns or gas stops with life. I did see about 5 other motorbikes--almost the same number as cars--so it's obviously a popular route for the two-wheel set. After Weaverville and onto Hayfork the mountains got bigger and the hills longer. The tight turns of up and down became switchback as the road lifted to higher and higher elevations. Through the mountains, and thankful to have the heated jacket, the path flattened and ranchland opened up for the final 100km into Red Bluff. These were perhaps, technically speaking, the best biking roads of the trip as the curves offered flickable corners and gentle elevation changes with no cross streets. In fact, I did see one sportbike pass me twice in each direction as he pushed his Ducati like it was a track day. The bright red leather suit also made him easy to spot.


The perfect ride from Rosewood to Red Bluff, CA.

A gas stop in Red Bluff and moment to reflect on the fantastic ride I just enjoyed. It did take about 5 hours and was far better than I dared expect. Time to join the interstate masses again and make time for San Francisco. It was also time to unplug the jacket as temperatures rose to 24℃. Red Bluff to Dunnigan is an unremarkable stretch of road with farmland in every direction. Lots of speed traps and traffic so it is best to settle into a comfortable rhythm and do your taxes in your head. Or, better yet, think of how to describe that ride you just had to your friends.


The perfect weather on the perfect hills heading into San Francisco via Hwy 505.

The final 150km into San Francisco is off the I5. The first diversion is only Hwy 505 to meet up with Hwy 80, the main route into the city. The sun was getting low when I made if to the 505 and the view was spectacular with long rolling hills, and eventually the signs of city life dotting byways. The most surprising shock of the day was the speed of traffic heading into the city. After a steady 120-130kph I was now piqued at 130-150kph to keep up with the flow of traffic. Fumbling to pay a toll and I was on the Bay Bridge into town. The GPS shouted instructions as I commandeered lane after lane and made it to R.H. and T.T.'s house with surprisingly little confusion.


San Francisco Bay Bridge, not the most fun to ride.

In his wonderfully inimitable style R.H. strolled out in his housecoat--at 8:30pm--to let me in to the building parkade and we put the bike to rest for the weekend. A. would be flying in a few hours later and a weekend of food, friends, and tomfoolery would begin.

Next up, the return trip north and eastern California!

Check out the series
Prelude: Trip preparation
Part 1: Vancouver to Medford
Part 2: Medford to San Francisco via Shasta-Trinity Forest
Part 3: San Francisco to Medford via Klamath Falls
Part 4: Medford to Vancouver
Coda: Conclusions to a great spring trip

San Francisco Dash: Day One

Vancouver B.C. to Medford, Oregon (970km)
March 19, 2009

I was out the door at 06:35 to a dark, cold, and rainy day. Traffic to the border was light as I rushed against suburban traffic. There were no problems crossing the line other than juggling gloves and helmets after getting the photo taken and driving up to the booth. I gassed up just after the border, and then prepared to shot through Seattle and its rush hour traffic and quickly as possible. It was still cold and raining.

Seattle has great carpool lanes (which bikes are allowed on) and express routes so I was through quicker than expected. I had originally planned for a breakfast stop but thought the better of it and pressed on. I had a long long way to go and at 200km it had barely started for the day.

The I5 (U.S. interstate) is a fine enough route through Washington and Oregon states, but nothing spectacular. It's the 'tastes like chicken' of roads inspiring only blasé familiarity. Breakfast was a Cliff Bar (energy bar) savoured at a few gas stops.



The rain continued all through Washington and most of Oregon. Stopping in Maytown rest stop I because so cold an uncontrollable chill set in and I had to warm up under the electric air dryers in the washroom. I planned on eating a sandwich I had bought back in Vancouver the day before in a desperate attempt to avoid the fast food chains that would be temping travelers who didn't know where else to turn. It's a testament to the heated jacket that I looked forward to getting back on the bike and feeling the warmth soak through. It wasn't until Roseburg the sun came out, and when it did the day turned spectacular.



Nine hundred kilometers into the first day and the weather was now in my favour. In the beautiful dusk light I finished the ride into Medford, OR, and found a cheap motel. Travel Lodge was clean, friendly, and $40 per night.

I sent an SMS to A.S. inquiring about places to grab dinner in Medford. A pizza place was sourced and off I went. At some point I decided I should check my oil while the bike was still warm and discovered the level was low, low enough to warrant filling up with more before the next day's ride. BMWs take a peculiar weight of oil that I knew would be difficult to find. After about and hour of riding around trying to find an open shop I ended up at Walmart and bought some oil. Heading to the bike to fill it up I discovered that in fact it didn't need oil, I just hadn't waited long enough before checking it before. The pizza sandwich I ended up with was remarkable only in its unremarkableness and I was glad to hit bed.

The next day promised much better riding as I was going to head into Shasta-Trinity forest in California.

Check out the series
Prelude: Trip preparation
Part 1: Vancouver to Medford
Part 2: Medford to San Francisco via Shasta-Trinity Forest
Part 3: San Francisco to Medford via Klamath Falls
Part 4: Medford to Vancouver
Coda: Conclusions to a great spring trip